Tunisia Way

Foreign traveller, you who only pass through this land, halt for a moment to contemplate the setting sun which sets alight the temples, or the moon which flitters across ghostly ruins: it is an experience not to be missed.

Little is known of the ancient city of Sbeïtla, known in Roman times as Sufetula. In 646 AD, the patrician Gregorius governor of ancient Proconsular Africa transferred his headquarters here, thus suddenly transforming it into a stronghold of Byzantine resistance. Just a year later, Abdallah Ibn Saad's 20,000 men killed Gregorius in a decisive battle and sacked the city. Many Byzantine remnants indicate that Sbeïtla was a hotbed of African Christianity. Several basilicas and baptismal fonts testify to the strong presence of a large Christian community. Many pagan and Roman buildings are still visible, including the door with three openings from the epoch of Anthonius the Pius (138-161 AD), the large public baths (3rd century), a theatre, Dioclestian's triumphant arch, and three temples next to each other.

Putting on a few more layers to shield us from the strong winds, we got out of the bus and walked over to the Roman site of Sbeitla. As the site is around 50 hectares, we weren't able to tour it in its entirety in the short time we were there. However, it was quite apparent that Sbeitla was an important, prosperous city for the Romans. The region was an important crossing point area in ancient times, centrally located between Morocco and the rest of Roman North Africa. The ideal olive growing conditions ensured that Sbeitla continued long after other Roman towns declined. Olive oil and golden marble were exported to Rome, while white Italian marble was brought to Tunisia. Sbeitla also became an important center of Christianity during the 4th century.
From a distance, the three temples were prominent in both scale and state of preservation. Unlike other capitols where a niche was created in the one building for each god, this one was split into three temples, one for each god. Prior to the temple area, we viewed the ruins of the great baths. Because the floors were collapsed, we were able to distinguish the under-floor heating system. Like other baths, Driss (our guide) explained that this one had both hot and cold baths to help bathers adjust to the vastly different temperatures between winter and summer. A cistern acting as a reserve for the baths was visible nearby. Fragments of gypsum and volcanic rock were seen on the walls, acting as insulation for the hot water. Due to adequate rainfall and spring water, the area did not have to concern itself for with a water supply as other places had.