Tunisia Way

ZAMMOUR

Ksar as military stronghold

What you, as a visitor, get in return is stunning views. To your west are the scattered houses of Zammour village — far more scattered than what is usual in Tunisia. The distance between each house might be an indication of the success of the ksar: Everybody knew that the wealth (food) of Zammour was so well protected, that there was no reason to make any form of attack.

The ksars are fairly modest — Zammour has never had more than some few hundred inhabitants. No part of it rises above two floors, but there is one part of the ksar which makes it a bit different from others: The ground is paved with flagstones.

Well protected on the summit 

While it is the mountain peak in the back that is the highest, the one used by the ksar of Zammour quite high, and with all sides dropping. This photo is made at the point where the road no longer is good enough for vehicles. The rest of the track has to be done on foot.

Thanks to the low height of the ghurfas here, you can stand in the middle of the ksar, and still enjoy the great views over several valleys. To the left on this picture you see the fertile valley of Beni Kheddache.

ZANNFOUR

Untouched Roman city 

Zannfour is a totally weird place. It contains the huge Roman city Assuras, where nothing has been excavated. A few monumental structures peek through the fields where sheep graze. All around lies stones and remains of pillars, many with fine inscriptions.

ZRIBA

Clinging to the mountain edge 

Today only 7 families still lives in Zriba but from the condition of the houses it seems as if soon more will leave. Local are especially upset with the closure of the school, the focal point of social life out here.

Zriba doesn't reveal itself until some of the last curves leading up to the rugged, beautiful mountain where it clings. Most inhabited houses today lie beneath the original village, and appear to be in good shape.

The condition with the houses on the top is far worse, and a part of Tunisian cultural heritage is falling in here. Most roofs are gone, and bricks fill up much of the nicely paved streets.

On both sides of the village the wild mountain tops fold like protective hands, and views in both ends are stunning. I got so sad when coming here in September 2005 that I started to rave about what wealth the locals were giving up, explaining that their views were worth millions of dinars, that they were rich without knowing it. They liked what I told, but I'm sure if it helps. The people here are in the middle of a process which has struck any place on the planet: In a transitional phase, the old is nothing, the new is great. And then suddenly, the new becomes ordinary, and they realize what has been left behind or even lost.

One positive development is there, the zawiyya is being rebuilt, a sign that local pride is not all gone. But the mosque has lost its function long ago.

Houses

All houses of Zriba use the tube roof, which is common in the Dorsale Mountains, and which has similarities with the ghurfas of the south.

On the western side of the village a few houses still stand intact and are inhabited. The photo above shows the courtyard of the best maintained one.

The second photo shows the only house in use in the village proper. The lowest photo is from the eastern side of the village, the area with the fantastic views towards the Mediterranean Sea, the area where nobody wants to live.

Stunning panoramas 

Zriba has stunning views in two directions; towards the Zaghouan Mountain and towards the Gulf of Hammamet.